Pork is the most flexible meat on the table and gets the least attention for it. It sits somewhere between white meat and red, which means the field is wide open.

The thing to look out for is sweetness. Apple sauce, sticky glazes, caramelised crackling and most sausage seasonings all bring a touch of sugar, and a bone-dry, high-tannin red will taste sour against them. An off-dry Riesling or a soft, fruity red handles it much better.