Heat, sweetness and aromatics are what make these dishes difficult, and they're also what tells you where to look.

Chilli heat is made worse by alcohol and tannin, and calmed by sweetness. Which is why a slightly off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer works so well with a hot curry, while a big oaky red makes it hurt more. Aromatic dishes want aromatic wines, so the perfumed grapes tend to shine. And where there's soy, miso or anything deeply savoury, a light chilled red can be brilliant.

Cover most of the table with a good Riesling and you won't go far wrong.