There's a reason game season and the first properly cold evenings arrive together. Pheasant, venison, partridge and duck all have a deep, slightly wild, iron-edged savouriness that asks for a wine with some age and some earth to it.

Pinot Noir is the classic answer, and for good reason: mature red Burgundy with roast game is one of the great pairings in wine. But the northern Rhône is just as good with venison, and duck in particular is a wine you can play with, since its fat and sweetness open the door to everything from Barolo to a rich Alsace white.