Smoke, char and sticky marinade are three of the loudest flavours you'll ever put on a plate, and a delicate wine will simply vanish underneath them. This is the moment for something bold and fruit-forward: Malbec, Shiraz, Zinfandel, southern French reds.

Two practical notes. Serve reds slightly cool, because a big wine at garden temperature on a warm day turns soupy and alcoholic. And buy more rosé than you think you need, since it's the only thing that goes with all of it and everyone always wants a glass.