Morey-Saint-Denis, Burgundy.

Michel Magnien spent 25 years quietly buying up small plots of vineyard in one of Burgundy's finest villages, then sold most of his grapes to the local co-operative. It took his son Frédéric, who joined the family business in 1993, to start bottling the wine under their own name.

Frédéric has since made one decision that raised eyebrows across Burgundy: he got rid of all his new oak barrels. Since 2015 the wines have been aged in clay jars instead. His reasoning is simple. Oak adds flavour of its own, clay doesn't, and he'd rather you tasted the fruit and the vineyard than the barrel.

The estate is farmed biodynamically and the vines average 50 years old, which he has no plans to change. The wines are pure, red-fruited and beautifully clear-edged, Burgundy with nothing in the way.